The Traditional Village of Wae Rebo on The Island of Flores

Overview

The traditional village of Wae Rebo in the district of Manggarai on the island of Flores, East Nusa Tenggara, has recently received the Top Award of Excellence from UNESCO in the 2012 UNESCO Asia Pacific Heritage Awards, announced in Bangkok on 27 August 2012.

This small and isolated village was recognized for its rebuilding of the traditional Mbaru Niang traditional house based on the spirit of community cooperation towards a sustainable tradition, while at the same time improving its village welfare.

Wae Rebo is a small, very out of the way village.  Located some 1,100 meters above sea level, where the air is cool and the village completely surrounded by panoramic mountains and the dense Todo forest. This tropical forest is rich in vegetation, where you will find orchids, different types of ferns and hear the chirping of many songbirds.

Founder of the village and, therefore, their main ancestor who built the village some 100 years ago, was a man called Empu Maro. Today, the inhabitants are his 18th generation descendents.  

Wae Rebo’s main characteristics are their unique houses, which they call Mbaru Niang that are tall and conical in shape and are completely covered in lontar thatch from its rooftop down to the ground.  It appears that at one time such kind of houses were quite common to the region.  But today, it is only this village that continues to maintain the typical Manggarai traditional house, without which these unique houses would have been completely fazed out.

The house has five levels, each level designated for a specific purpose. The first level , called lutur or tent, are the living quarters of the extended family. The second level, called lobo, or attic, is set aside to store food and goods, the third level called lentar is to store seeds for the next harvest, the fourth level calledlempa rae is reserved for food stocks in case of draught, and the fifth and top level, called hekang kode, which is held most sacred, is to place offerings for the ancestors.

One special ceremonial house is the community building where members of the entire clan gather for ceremonies and rituals. They are predominantly Catholic but still adhere to old beliefs. In this house are stored the sacred heirloom of drums and gongs.

With a small population of around 1,200 inhabitants only, the village comprises 7 houses, with half of these falling into disrepair. Thestaple diet of villagers is cassava and maize, but around the village they plant coffee, vanilla, and cinnamon which they sell in the market, located some 15 km. away from the village. Lately, however, Wae Rebo has grown in popularity as a touirst destination for international eco-tourism enthusiasts, and this has added to the economic welfare of the village.  The people of Wae Rebo warmly welome visitors who wish to see their village and experience their simple traditional life.   

If you wish to stay overnight, the villagers welcome visitors to their homes.

Get There

A trip to the village of Wae Rebo takes some 5 to 7 hours by car from Labuan Bajo on the west coast of Flores, hopping off point to the famous Komodo National Park. Alternatively, you may want to start your journey from the town of Ruteng, capital of the district of Manggarai, towards the village of Dintor, which takes around 4 hours.  After this the road goes uphill past ricefields until you reach Denge Sebu village. From here the only way is some 3 hours trekking through the jungle until you finally reach Wae Rebo.   

There are regular daily flights to Labuan Bajo’s Komodo Airport on Trans Nusa airlines and Merpati.

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East Nusa Tenggara , Traditional Villages

The Romantic Pink Beach of The Komodo Islands

Overview

A clear blue sky above, with fluffy white clouds drifting lazily across. Rolling green hills, covered luxuriantly in thick vegetation, interspersed with high, rocky cliffs. Calm, clear waters, tinted by the colorful corals beneath its surface, and alive with the movement of a hundred species of marine life. Last, but not least: a stretch of soft sand, but not white, not black, but PINK!

Pink Beach, or Pantai Merah, as it is aptly named, is one of seven pink beaches on the planet, and is just one of the many amazing features of Komodo Island that make it truly a Natural Wonder of Nature. This exceptional beach gets its striking color from microscopic animals called Foraminifera, which produce a red pigment on the coral reefs.  For this reason, it is called Red Beach in the local tongue. When the tiny fragments of red coral combine with the white sands, this produces the soft pink color that is visible along the shoreline. Aside from Pink Beach itself, a few small segments along Komodo’s eastern bay also have a pinkish tint.

To Do

Indulge your senses in the natural beauty and exotic charm that is Komodo Island. Relish the seclusion of a deserted beach on an uninhabited island, with not a soul in sight save your own travel team and guides. Take a moment to appreciate panoramic views of turquoise seas, green rolling hills, blue skies and fascinatingly pink sands. Aside from the obvious relaxation amidst this picture perfect scenery, Komodo is not short of interesting activities to partake in.
Once you have finished taking in the magnificent surroundings, take a dip in the waters and uncover the marine beauty that Pink Beach has to offer.  Amazing corals of all shapes and sizes jut from the sea bed, many even visible while still aboard your vessel.
Obviously snorkeling and diving have become a sort of compulsory activity while visiting this beach. The corals of the Pink Beach’s underwater gardens are in excellent condition, with hundreds of species of both soft and hard corals, and thousands of species of fish. Pink Beach is a terrific choice for snorkelers and beginner divers as even the shallow waters are home to an abundance of species to keep you more than entertained. Of course, there is much more to see the deeper you venture.
Relax on the fairytale-like pink sands and work on your tan. Or join in with the various other available water sports such as kayaking or just having a leisurely swim. If photography is your passion, this is definitely a place to try your hand at capturing the stunning natural beauty of the island. And make sure you stick around till sunset, as the view is amazing.
A few points to keep in mind, is that this is an uninhabited island, and it also is the natural habitat of the Komodo Dragon. If you see the creatures roaming the coast or in the water, be sure to keep a distance. Komodo Dragons are excellent swimmers and are even capable of swimming inter-island. Komodo Dragons are wild animals that could be potentially dangerous to people, so it is not recommended to visit this beach without the help of an experienced guide or ranger.

Get There

The best route to the Komodo National Park is most definitely through Bali. As one of the most popular destinations in Indonesia,Bali is an extremely well connected airport with international flights available from Amsterdam, Bangkok ,Brisbane, Darwin, Dili, Doha,Hangzhou, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur, Macau, Manila, Melbourne, Moscow, Osaka, Perth, Singapore, Sydney, Taipei, Tokyo and others. Domestic flights are available from all major cities of Indonesia.

From Bali, Trans Nusa airline has daily flights to Labuan Bajo on Flores by small jet or turbo-prop planes carrying 50 passengers. Labuan Bajo is the gateway to the Komodo islands. Merpati Nusantara also has flights to Labuan Bajo. 

Once in Labuan Bajo, you can proceed to Komodo by speedboat.The port in Labuan Bajo is about a 10 minute drive from the Labuanbajo airport. You can choose to dock straight on the fabled Pink Beach, or if you prefer a trek through the coral cliffs and mangroves, you could dock on a different side of the island, and embark on the 4 hour trek by foot to the beach.

To Stay

As pink beach is an uninhabited and fairly remote area, most tourists opt to stay in Labuan Bajo for proper accommodations. If you wish to stay on Komodo itself, there are available homestays on the island with modest facilities and simple food. Your guide should be able to help you on this matter should you choose to overnight on Komodo.

For information on operators to Komodo and Labuan Bajo, please click “Find Travel Agent” in Labuan Bajo.

Live aboard cruises are also available, among which are:

http://www.komodoliveaboard.com/

http://www.komodo-diving.com/

And finally, for where to stay, here is a list of the accommodations in Labuan Bajo. More are available at“Find a Hotel”.

Komodo Resorts consists of 14 spacious bungalows that fit perfectly into the surrounding landscape, just a short stretch from the beach. The bungalows are made from teak wood that has been recycled or that has come from controlled plantations. Each bungalow is equipped with hot water and fans, and 8 of the deluxe bungalows also include air-conditioning and a minibar.

Dive trips and live aboard cruises are also available at this resort.

Komodo Resort
Tanjung Pelinta, Sebayur Island,
Komodo, Manggarai Barat, Flores 86754
Phone   : 62- 85 - 42095
Fax      : 62 – 385 – 42094
Website: www.komodoresort.com

Bintang Flores Hotel is a four-star hotel in Labuanbajo located amidst spacious grounds and overlooking a private beach. Guest rooms come equipped with a king-sized bed or twin beds, satellite TV, safety deposit box, mini-bar, IDD telephone and air-conditioning. Ground-floor rooms offer direct access to the hotel gardens, while those on the higher floors provide a spectacular view of the Flores Sea. Rates start at USD 120 – 230 per night.

Bintang Flores Hotel
Jalan Pantai Pede, Labuan Bajo
Phone   : 62 – 385 – 2443755
Fax       : 62 – 385 – 2443762
Email    : info@bintangfloreshotel.com
Website:www.bintangfloreshotel.com

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Diving and Snorkeling , East Nusa Tenggara , Water Sport

The Fascinating ALOR Islands at the east-most end of Flores

Overview

Despite its short name, the Alor islands hide a long list of splendors, from fascinating underwater wonders up to the unique culture of the highland people. Here, one will be indulged with spectacles ranging from spellbinding marine life, the unique Moko kettledrums, the oldest Al Qur’an in Southeast Asia, and the traditional villages of the highlands.

Extending at the east- most tip of Flores Island, still in the province of East Nusa Tenggara, Alor is a name pinned to the regency, the archipelago, as well as the main island of the archipelago.

The Alor Archipelago comprises 20 islands and 17 sub-districts. Among these, only 9 islands are inhabited: Alor, Pantar, Pura, Terewang, Ternate (not to be confused with Ternate in Maluku), Kepa, Buaya, Kangge, and Kura. The other 11 uninhabited islands are: Sikka, Kapas, Batang, Lapang, Rusa, Kambing, Watu Manu, Batu Bawa, Batu Ille, Ikan Ruing, and Nubu.

Although not yet as popular as Raja Ampat or neighboring Komodo Island, the waters around the archipelago offer equally fascinating spectacles –if not better. There are at least 50 dive spots stretching from Alor Island to Pantar Island, and several islets around them. Among these, 20 are considered in prime condition and among the world’s best. Some of the best sites are found along the Pantar Strait.

Those who are fortunate enough to have experienced diving in these waters have said that the underwater splendors of Alor outclass those in the Caribbean. In his book “East of Bali”, Photographer Kal Muller described the waters around Alor as pristine, filled with a variety of fascinating creatures, and highlighted with night-dive spots. He considered Alor as a world class underwater paradise.

The island of Alor itself is inhabited by a number of Flores sub- ethnic groups who still preserve their traditional ways of life. One of these still produces clothing from tree bark known as the Ka Clothing. The unique cultureof the Alorese are best observed among the Takpala indigenous group who dwell in the village of Lembur Barat, North-Central Alor. The Takpala still preserve the traditional housing construction that resembles a pyramid, covered with coconut leaves, bamboo plaited walls, and four main wooden pillars.

The island of Alor is also known as the island of a Thousand Moko’s. Moko is a small bronze kettledrum which is believed to have originated from the Dong Son culture of Vietnam. However, it remains a mystery as to how these prehistoric Dong Son drums arrived in Alor. Local legend says that the moko’s were discovered  buried in the ground, and indeed until today it is still common for these mokos to be  similarly  uncovered.To observe these unique artifacts, one can visit the Museum of  A Thousand Mokos located in the main town of Kalabahi, on Alor Island. The Museum also showcases a collection of distinct Alor hand-woven clothing called Kawate.

The island also holds the oldest Al Qur’an (Islamic holy book) ever to be discovered in Indonesia and in South East Asia. The Al Qur’an which is estimated to be over 800 years old is made of tree bark and uses natural substances for ink. The special Al Qur’an was once shown to the public in April 2011, during the Legu Gam Festival of the Ternate Sultanate.

To Do

As an extension from the seas of Flores and Komodo Island, the Alor Archipelago is blessed with equally fascinating marine spectacles. Diving here is bliss, for you will encounter pristine coral reefs and fascinating creatures of the deep. Here divers will be indulged with the appearance of whales, sharks, mola-mola or sunfish, manta rays, and various other underwater creatures.

A number of  dive spots in Alor include Baruna’s Point, Never-Never wall, Cave Point, Barrel Sponge Wall, Mola-Mola Point, Night Snacks, Alor Expree, Rocky Point, Three Coconuts, Moving Pictures, Eagle Ray Point, Rahim’s Point, Tuna Channel, Anemone Country, Sharks Reeway, Octopus Garden, Captain’s Choice, The Refrigerator, Half Moon Bay, Peter’s Prize, Crocodile Rook,  The Edge, Coral Clitts, Baeylon, The Arch, Fallt Line, The Pacth, Nite Delht, Kal’s Dream, The Ball, Trip Top, The Mlai Hall, No Man’s Land, The Chatedral, School’s Ut, dan Shark Close. 

On land, Alor Island is a perfect place to explore the fascinating culture of the country. Aside from the thousand Mokos and the 800 years old Al Qur’an, you can explore the indigenous way of life that has been well preserved for generations.

Get There

To get to Alor, you can take a flight from Kupang,  capital of East Nusatenggara. From Kupang there are several airlines that serve flights to Mali Airport in Kalabahi, the main town of Alor. Trans-Nusa serves daily flights between Kupang-Alor which takes about an hour. Reservation can be made at:

Trans Nusa:

Jl.Jenderal Sudirman,No.68, Kupang

Telephone: +62 380 822555

The other option is by ferry which will take approximately 12 hours from Kupang to Larantuka, and followed by wooden boats to Kalabahi Seaport , which take  about one hour.

To Stay

Kalabahi is the main city, and the capital of the Alor Regency. This is where all the facilities and accommodation are centered. Here are some of the accommodations in Kalabahi:

Hotel Pelangi Indah
Jalan Diponegoro No. 24, Kalabahi, Alor
Telp. +6 2386 21251

Hotel Nusa Kenari Indah
Jalan Diponegoro No. 11, Kalabahi, Alor
Telp. +62 386 21074

Homestay Cantik
Jalan Dahlia No.12, Kalabahi, Alor
Telp. +62 0386 21030

Hotel Marlina
Jalan Dipenogoro No.11, Kalabahi, Alor
Telp. +62 386 21208; 21205

Hotel Adi Dharma
Jalan R.E. Martadinata No. 12, KalabahiN Alor
Telp. +62 0386 21280

Hotel Mawar
Jalan Dipenogoro No.34, Kalabahi, Alor
Telp. +62 386 21251; 21281

Hotel Melati
Jalan Dr. Soetomo No. 1, Kalabahi, Alor
Telp. +62 0386 21073

Hotel Nur Fitra
Jalan Pasar Paledang, Kalabahi, Alor
Telp. +62 0386 2222124

There are also other accommodation available on other islands that particularly cater to divers. These are:

Homestay and Diving La P’tite, Kepa Island
Kecamatan Alor Barat laut, Alor, NTT
Telp. +62 386 21141; 21146
Mobile. +62 81 353 709 719
Website. www.la-petite-kepa.com/

Javatoda, Alor Divers
Jalan Tengiri No. 1 Kalabahi, Alor
Mobile: +62 81317804133.
Website: www.alor-divers.com/

Find a Travel agent:

Flobamora Travel
Jalan Hati Suci No.50, Kupang
Telp. +62 380 831798

Nusatin Travel
Jalan Jenderal Sumdirman No.25, Kupang
Telp. +62 380 21086

Ellyandu Travel
Jalan Sumatera No. 13, Kupang
Telp. +62 380 821473

Stindo Travel
Jalan Perintis Kemerdekaan No. 17, Kupang
Telp. +62 380 821473

Montana Travel
Jalan Herewila No. 11, Kupang
Telp. +62 380 826814; 822272

Pitoby Travel
Jalan Jenderal Sudirman, Kupang
Telp. +62 380 832700

SKTM
Jalan RW Monginsidi, Komplek Ruko Lontar permai Blok B/17, Kupang
Telp. +62 380 8333990

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Diving and Snorkeling , East Nusa Tenggara

Sumba: Powerful Surf, Living Megalithic Culture and Fine Ikat Cloths

Overview

Facing the wide Indian Ocean, the island of Sumba in the province of East Nusatenggara is a surfer’s paradise. The large rolling Sumba barrels usually appear between May through October when waves can be either very high and strong or very flat as breaks are directly exposed to wide open ocean swells. This kind of powerful surf, however, though very challenging, should only be ventured by professionals. However, throughout the year, swells rise from 3 to 6 feet.

Although as yet little known on the tourist map, surprisingly the island of Sumba has a number luxurious, well frequented resorts. The Nihiwatu Resort, for example, describes itself as “the ultimate in privacy, exclusivity, views and romance”, and has been awarded Indonesia’s 2nd best hotel by Tripadvisor. Additionally there is the Sumba Nautil Resort both in the south west of Sumba, another favourite with surfers.  

Located between the islands of Komodo and Sumbawa, Sumba has two distinct climates. Its western part receives more rain, is more fertile and therefore has more inhabitants, whilst its eastern part is mountainous with grassy plateaus and valleys. Here is Sumba’s highest peak, the Wangga Meti rising 1,225 meters above sea level. . Capital of west Sumba is Waikabubak with its airport at Tambolaka, while the island’s largest town of Waingapu  in East Sumba.  In between are mostly villages where communities still adhere to the ancient belief of Marapu or ancestor worship of the megalithic era. Here you will find large, well carved megalithic tombs. Traditional clan houses are round with peaked thick thatched roofs resembling wide sunhats.   West Sumba plants rice, while East Sumba is famous for its water buffaloes and ikat weaving. Sumba raises Indonesia’s best horses.   

West Sumba 

The western part of Sumba has plenty to offer tourists who dare to venture into off-the-beaten- track destinations.  Here can be seen traditional villages, stone megalithic tombs even around West Sumba’s capital of Waikabubak, and watch rituals following the ancient belief of the islanders.The center of rituals Is the village of Tarung, a small remote hamlet west of Waikabubak, which the Sumbanese believe is their spiritual center.  It is the high priest of Tarung who officiates at the yearly Wula Padu ceremony honoring the deified ancestors at the start of the Marapu newyear at the arrival of the rainy season. The Festival is held around October or November. 

Once a year the exciting Pasola jousting festivals, the culmination of a series of fertility rituals are held on separate days at different locations on the island. Hundreds of warriors on horses charge into each other riding bareback, hurling spears. This festival, usually held between February and March, and is believed to bring fertility to the land.     

The world has come to know West Sumba closer since the opening of the Nihiwatu Resort in the southwest of the island, some 1.5 hours from Waikabubak. This resort is known for its exceptional surf and beautifully inspiring surroundings.  Surfing is best at the Kerewe, Marosi and Dasang beaches facing south where there are premier lefts and large double overhead surf.

East Sumba

Waingapu on the northern eastern coast of Sumba is the largest town and its seaport.

Around two kilometers from Waingapu is the traditional village of Prailiu, and some 10 km. away is the village of Kwangu, while 6 km from the city is the village of Labanapu, all three are famous for their exquisite ikat weaving. Women of Sumba produce some exemplary hand woven cloth with motifs of stylized horses, animals and people, in dark blue, red and black, white and yellow natural dyes.  Here visitors can watch the entire intricate and tedious process of ikat weaving. Look for the unique cloths with sewn in seashells.

Best surf in the east is on Manggudu island, which has both left and long right waves.

Get There

West Sumba airport is at Tambolaka, close to Waikabubak. Trans Nusa operates weekly flights to Sumba alternating between Tambolaka in the West amd Waingapu in the East, so make sure where you will land. The Nihiwatu Resort charters weekly flights to Tambolaka.

To Stay

There are several hotels and inns you can find throughout the island of Sumba, for information on hotels with website, you can refer to our find a hotel.

West Sumba:

1. Hotel Manandang      

Jl. Pemuda No.14 Waikabubak,

Phone: +62 387 22197     

2. Hotel Artha   

Jl. Veteran Waikabubak

Phone: +62 387 21112     

3. Hotel Pelita   

Jl. A. Yani No.2 Waikabubak

 Phone: +62 387 21104  

4. Hotel Aloha   

Jl. Sudirman No.26          

+62 387 21245     

East Sumba

1. Hotel Merlin

Jl. Panjaitan No.25 Waingapu     

Phone: +62 387 61300     

2. Hotel Sundlewood     

Jl.Panjaitan No.23 Waingapu      

Phone: +62 387 61887     

3. Hotel Elvin     

Jl. A. Yani No 73 Waingapu          

Phone: +62 387 62097     

4. Hotel Kaliuda                

Jl. Lalamentik No.3 Waingapu    

Phone: +62 387 61264     

5. Hotel Surabaya            

Jl. El Tari No.2 Waingapu              

+62 387 61125     

6. Hotel Lima Saudara    

Jl. Wanggameti No.2 Waingapu                

+62 387 61083

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Adventure , East Nusa Tenggara , Traditional Villages

LARANTUKA of ‘Semana Santa’ fame

Overview

The town of Larantuka, capital of the District of East Flores, lies on the very eastern edge of this long island of Flores in the East Nusatenggara province. Although now quite a sleepy town, in its heydays Larantuka was a hive of activities when in the 16^th century, Portuguese traders came here to load their vessels with precious sandalwood. Not much is left today of this lucrative aromatic wood except for one or two trees still found in the forest.

The first Portuguese ship is said to have arrived here in 1556 at the nearby Solor island near Larantuka. But soon the Portuguese were defeated by the Dutch, and so they retreated to Larantuka.  The predominantly Catholic Portuguese intermarried with the local population, and gradually Portuguese culture, traditions and faith, were adopted by the local elite.

The King of Larantuka at the time, Ola Ado Bala the 11^th, changed his name to Don Fransisco Ola Ado Bala Diaz Viera Deo Godinho, or better known as Don Fransisco Ola Ado Bala DVG.  And as the king changed his name, everyone followed suit. The 13 tribes living in Larantuka then also changed name, the Lamaholot people became the Fernandez tribe, the De Rosari, Da Costa, Da Santo, Gonzales, Ribeiru, Skera and the De Ornay.

Larantuka , in the Lamaholot language meaning the Meeting point, became the meeting place for people of the surrounding Adonara, Lembata and Solor islanders as well as the people from Flores mainland. The town also merged Lamaholot, Portuguese and Malay traditions brought by merchants.

In the 19^th century the Portuguese sold its ruling rights in Flores to the Dutch. Consequently, the booming sandalwood trade declined and now the local inhabitants mostly live on subsistence agriculture.

Today, Larantuka’s landmark is its Cathedral called Reinha Rosari. The cathedral together with the two chapels known as Capela Tuam Ana (Chapel of Jesus Christ) and Capela Tuan Ma (Mother Mary Chapel) are the center of the yearly Easter processions, when the statues of Jesus and Mary, originally brought here by the Portuguese are carried from the chapels to the cathedral

Larantuka comes alive once a year during Holy Week when thousands of pilgrims throng the town to follow the unique Semana Santa ceremonie. The town then literally bursts at the seams. Detailed information about this event can be found at:THE LARANTUKA “SEMANA SANTA” UNIQUE HOLY WEEK CELEBRATIONS

This area is also famous for its ikat-weaving.  Besides its meticulous and arduous process, the locally named kwatek kinge cloth is unique among the Flores fine ikatcloths in that it has sewn-in small seashells into the design. This cloth is produced in the remote village of Lewokluo some 26 km. from Larantuka, and is chiefly used in ceremonial functions. Unfortunately there are very few women left today who still own the knowledge and the skill to manufacture these beautiful intricate materials.

Get There

Larantuka does not have a commercial airport. Therefore to get there you must take a flight from Jakarta or Bali to Maumereor Kupang, and travel overland to Larantuka. Maumere is linked by air to Kupang and Bali with regular flights. 3 airlines fly from here, Lion air and Merpati. All flights eventually end up in Bali, either via Kupang, Sumba or Labuan bajo, so together there is at least 1 flight every day to Bali.

To Stay

Larantuka has mostly modest but clean accommodations, among these are:

The Sunrise Hotel

Jl. Soekarno-Hatta, Weri, Larantuka, Flores

Hotel Fortuna.

Jl. Basuki Rachmat No. 171, Larantuka, Flores

ASA Hotel larantuka

Jl.Soekarno-Hatta,Weri,Larantuka, Flores

Phone: +62383 2325018

Email: asahotel.larantuka@gmail.com

Website/blog: http://asahotel-larantuka.blogspot.com/

Further east, on the island of Alor is the Alor Divers Eco Resort. Information on this resort can be found at www.alor-divers.com

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East Nusa Tenggara , Heritage Sites

Kanawa: Best Satellite Island to enjoy the Komodo National Park

Overview

The island of Kanawa, only some 15 kilometers from the growing fishermen’s town of Labuan Bajo on Flores, is fringed with a bed of coral reefs teeming with colorful fish all around. Its turquoise water is exceptionally calm and clear. Swimming and snorkeling are most poular family activities here. Dive down the sea from the jetty, and meet schools of fish that cloud the stilts. Hours would pass so quietly as you are busy with all of these beach activities.

The island of Kanawa has two bulging hills with fantastic panorama from its hilltop. Covering only 32-hectare or less than 80-acre land, the island is a hideout from the hidden, yet so close to the burgeoning harbor of Labuan Bajo. This could be the only resort class service that fits the budget of backpackers.

 The 250,000-rupiah-per-night bungalows on Kanawa may just be the perfect base for you to start exploring the entire, or part of the Komodo National Park. There is nothing you can do on the island, except everything that the water and the land of the national park around it have to offer. The observation of the Komodo dragon, the water buffalos of Rinca, the male and female palm trees, the savanna of Monkey Mountain in Rinca, and the scenic landscape of the national park are equally astonishing. Moreover, diving and snorkeling in crystal clear waters are just a short walk away when you stay on Kanawa instead of Labuan Bajo.

An Italian citizen has rented the property from a local and brushed the entire island with his natural touch. The 14 wooden bungalows built here camouflage the fantasy of a paradise on earth. Amongst sparse beach vegetation that grows between a rocky hill and turquoise water, the eco-friendly property is a delightful ambush. People do not wish to leave too soon. It’s a seamless haven.

The Starfish café is part of the resort, a hang out place to read the travel book, or share stories with the entire world. There are also diving enthusiasts who love to share their latest engagement with the mantas, the wobbegongs, the whale sharks, or the pigmy seahorse found in the diving spots around the island. The music usually turns to become lively during the evening after a time-lapsing moment passing the unworldly episode of a golden sunset.

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Diving and Snorkeling , East Nusa Tenggara

Ruteng: Capital of Manggarai, hub to fascinating Flores Attractions

Overview

Ruteng, capital of the district of Manggarai, in the western part of the island of Flores, is a pleasant, busy town backed by a range of mountains. Located some 1,200 meters above sea level the air is cool. Surrounding the town are green rice fields that provide the staple for the population on this predominantly dry island. Coffee grown around here is also most invigorating.

Ruteng is some 4 hours drive from Labuan Bajo, the town where tourists take boats to visit the habitat of the famous Komodo Dragons on the islands of Komodo and Rinca or go diving in this National Park.  

It is from Ruteng that the Catholic mission spread to convert many of the islanders, building many missionary schools, so that Flores today is indeed predominantly Catholic.  

As capital city of Manggarai, Ruteng still maintains an equilibrium between the ancient and the modern. Most people visit Ruteng either at the start of their journey across Flores, or at the end.  Here most facilities are available, accommodation though modest are clean and good, and shops are well stocked. Internet also works here.

 Ruteng originated from a small village, and the story goes that it emerged from the heart of Compang Ruteng, or Ruteng Pu’u. This is a village that still exists until today and travelers go there to see the remaining original house of theManggaraian and a compang, a stone altar that is the center of the village. Acompang is a sacred place, where the ancestors are believed to live, while all the houses encircle it concentrically. Observe the locals who live as an agricultural community. Agricultural products found here are coffee, copra, candlenut, cloves, and cacao.

From Ruteng visit the mystifying spiderweb ricefields at Cancar, wander further to the Liang Bua cave, where archaeologists discovered skeletons of world’s singular hobbits. Watch the fantastic dance at Melo or Tado, or visit Wae Rebo, a hamlet in the hills of the district that still adheres to the megalithic culture.  

Similar to Bajawa and Moni, the weather in Ruteng is unexpectedly cooler than the rest of the island, making it a nice exotic town for morning or evening strolls.

To know more in depth about the culture and suorrundings of Ruteng, tour guides are the best asset to explain and allow you to experience some of Flores’ best. 

The puzzling Todo village is also worth an adventurous excursion, relating to the time when Minangkabau sailors from West Sumatra landed here hundreds of years ago far on the island of Flores. 

The ultimate activity to do on Flores is of course visit the living Komodo dragons, the Varanus komodoensis, in their habitat. Overall, the regency is a natural and cultural reserve that continues to illustriously enhance this rocky island.

As a hub of tourist attractions on Flores, Ruteng is easily accessible by land transportation. Manggarai was once a larger regency.

In 2003 and 2007, it was divided into three regencies; West Manggarai, Manggarai, and East Manggarai. Its strategic position and geographical situation at the slope of Mount Anak Ranaka, makes the town of Ruteng an energizing transit town and a fascinating destination at the same time.

To Do

‘Don’t judge a book by its cover’ applies to Ruteng. There are many resourceful persons who can tell you about extraordinary attractions. Consider paying a visit to these attractions:

As a start, the Catholic church right in the middle of the town is an interesting spot to discover the historical background of the town when Catholicism grew and came to be embraced by most of the population on the island. The building is a fantastic old structure yet invigorating as the energy from its spiritual ambiance permeates across the sizeable hall.

As background of Ruteng Mount Anak Ranaka , an active volcano is a safe home for endemic birds and insects. Go see the tour operator in town to see if they can provide a guide, or a professional botanist.

A few miles from the town, lies Liang Bua, another archeological site where hobbits are believed to have once roamed the land. Scientists call the newly found dwarf species the Homo floresiensis. The cave is very large and the local guide will surprise you as he takes you to a much larger hall inside the cave that connects modern age to the beginning of human civilization. In the mid 1950‘s the cave was used as a school and that alone is striking.

From Ruteng, Liang Bua is easily accessible by public transport, passing villages like Ru’ah Village where the community lives in a peaceful environment. The location of the cave is around 14 kilometers from Ruteng.

Architectural wonders are also part of the catalogue that Manggarai has to offer. In Wae Rebo, a village that hides from all the traffic and commercial activities around Ruteng, the community still lives and preserves the ancient way of living, staying in cone-shaped houses. It is said that in the 70s, living in a traditional house calledmbaru niang, disappeared. But, surprisingly, there is still this one village in the entire Manggarai district that still has a complete set of village structures, including traditional houses, a drum house as symbol of the tribe, and the compang, the stone altar where the souls of the ancients are believed to reside. (see pictures in “moments captured” on Flores)

Some 17 kilometers from Ruteng, and on the return journey from Labuan Bajo, a village named Cara in Cancar presents the most tremendous sight that will take your breath away. From a hilltop, green rice fields spread right before your eyes. Unusually, the pattern of the walkways resemble the form of a spider web that you will instantly ask ‘how does it work’ as the pattern shows so vividly.

It begins with a story on how the Wae Rebo community recount about their tradition and their house. There is a philosophical correlation between the spiderweb-like pattern and the form of the house, especially the drum house of Wae Rebo or at Ruteng Pu’u.

Leaving the heart of Ruteng and heading to Labuan Bajo, Melo Village is on the way. The village is worth a stopover since it has a unique way to predict next year’s successful harvest. The locals would dance the Caci, and if one of the players spills blood, the villagers can expect a successful harvest the following year. Villagers here call this tradtion and dance club the Compang To’e.

In the south central of Manggarai, Todo Village is there to present to you the past of the royal clan of Manggaraians who claimed that their ancestors came from Minangkabau, West Sumatra. The name of the first person to establish the clan was Mashur. Mashur took a wife from every village he passed and claimed that his kinship was extensively spread in Manggarai.

The trip to Todo Village takes 2 hours. The distance is only 36 kilometers from Ruteng. The road is exceptionally winding and bumpy as it passes hills and mountainous areas. Head north to Golo Lusang, and after passing Golo Cala, turn right to Pongkor as you will pass Papang and Ulun-Gali Village. After crossing the Wae Mese river, you will pass Popo Village and finally Todo is right ahead. Minibuses from Ruteng to Todo are called oto kayu or bemo. Motorbike rental is also available in Ruteng.

Finally, like other travelers, you will want to hurry to Labuan Bajo to take a exhilarating start crossing the strait to Komodo and Rinca Island. Here the Komodo dragons will be a few meters away from you and there is nothing comparable to be among the living dragon in their own habitat. 

A short visit to Batu Cermin Cave is an enjoyable and playful walk with a little thrilling experience to be in the dark and see the fossils of sea creatures on the cave walls. Listen to the guide who will tell you about the strange monkeys living nearby area who can fish with their tails. See Labuan Bajo for further details.

Get There

Ruteng is right at the cross road between Labuan Bajo and Ende,  Bajawa, or Maumere. Many public transportation pass the town. Wherever one travels the vehicle must stop in Ruteng for a rest. Consider the assistance of tour operators with excellent local knowledge and good communication skill. For details, contacts and bookings see Find Travel Agents

To Stay

In Ruteng, a few comfortable hotels are :

1.      Hotel Sindha on Jalan Yos Sudarso No. 26 (Phone: +62 385 21197).

2.      Hotel Maryo’s on Jalan Poco Komba, Kampung Leda, Ruteng (Phone: +62 813 530 69572 with Felix as an Assistant Manager).    Email: f_de_rozari@hotmail.com.

3.      Hotel Bunga is a new hotel built in 2010. For budget travelers, the hotel is a comfortable place to stay with a starting rate from IDR 80,000 a night. It is located on Jalan Merak Nekang (Phone +62 812 3771 3074).

4.      Hotel Dahlia is a nice hotel with hot shower. Breakfast is included. It is located on Jalan Bhayangkara No. 18 (Phone +62 385 21377).

5.      Hotel Rima is the most prominent hotel in Ruteng. With a bamboo style cottage, the hotel’s rate starts from IDR 75,000 to IDR 225,999 a night. It is on Jalan Ahmad Yani (Phone: +62 385 22196).

6.      Susteran Maria Berduka Cita is a dormitory like accommodation at the Catholic convent, but guests are welcome to stay here. The hotel has a rule that limits any activities after 9 pm. It is exceptionally clean and friendly. Rates starts from IDR 140,000 and sits on Jalan Ahmad Yani (Phone:+62 385 22834)

To Eat

The traditional market is always an attraction, and traditional food must be part of the meeting place. But if you wish to eat in a more comfortable atmosphere, please refer to the followings:

-          Note that Rumah Makan is translated as Restaurant, and Jalan or Jl. is Street. Here the term ‘No’is a short for number.

1.      Rumah Makan Agape on Jl. Bhayangkari No. 8 (Phone: +62 385 22100).

2.      Rumah Makan Cha Cha on Jl. Diponegoro No. 12 (Phone: +62 385 21489 or +62 812 3949 3747).

3.      Rumah Makan Dua Tiga on Jalan Motang Rua No. 15

4.      Lestari on  Jalan Komodo No. 2 (Phone:  +62 385 211393 or +62 813 39187 000)

5.      Mas Nardi on Jalan Adi Sucipto No. 11

6.      Padedoang is a Padang restaurant on Jl. Adi Sucipto No. 3

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Adventure , East Nusa Tenggara , Traditional Villages

Maumere, City to embark on your Flores adventure

Overview

Capital of the district of Sikka on the eastern coast of Flores Island, Maumere is the perfect staging place to embark on an unforgettable adventure to unveil the beauty of Flores. The town itself is blessed with a beautiful landscape of hills and mountains complemented with clear green and blue ocean.

Maumere is the biggest city in Flores, larger than Labuan Bajo at the west end of the island. The town used to serve as an alternative for tourists to go to the Komodo National Park aside from Labuan Bajo. While, those wishing to attend Easter celebrations in Larantuka, also start off from Maumere, which is more easily connected by air to other parts of Indonesia.

Located at the narrowest part of the island, from Maumere due south to near the town Nita at Koting village,  one can see as  far as the Flores Sea to the north and the Savu Sea to the Indian Ocean to its southern horizon.

Today, Maumere is also the stepping off point to see the Three-Coloured Lakes on Mt. Kelimutu on the way to Ende. The village of Sikka, some 30 km from Maumere is the center of weaving in this area. Here visitors can watch, on request, the complete intricate process of ikat-weaving, including dying the threats with natural colors. Another village known for its weaving is Watublapi, which distinguishes itself through the use of symbolic motifs such as lizards, horses, birds and geometrical patterns.

Maumere used to be a favorite snorkeling and diving area, made famous by the Sao Wisata Resort built by Flores’ own hero, Frans Seda. Unfortunately, the 1992 tsunami davastated parts of the sea and the city.  Before that, Maumere was considered by many as the true illustration of “Flores” or Flower of the East Nusatenggara Archipelago. After nearly two decades, the town is now reviving, back to its former beauty with the newly renovated Frans Seda Airport (formerly called Wai Oti Airport).

 Before the Dutch colonial merchants arrived, Maumere was known as Sikka Alok or Sikka Kesik. Here, traders from China, Bugis, and Makassar often came to trade with the locals. These traders often stayed for days near the seaport called Waidoko. With the arrival of the Dutch, they eventually built government offices in Sikka and gave new names to the area such as Maunori, Mautenda, Mauwaru, Maurole, Mauponggo, and obviously Maumere in Sikka.

Since the majority of its people are Catholic, the town’s existence cannot be separated from the church of Larantuka. Catholicism was first introduced in 1566 by two missionaries from Dominica named P.Joao Bautista da Fortalezza and Simao da Madre de Deos. They initially started their mission in Paga, a small town about 45Km west of Maumere and were sent by P.Antonio Cruzz from the town of Larantuka. Every year congregations from Maumere head to Larantuka to join in the Semana Santa Easter Holy Week Ritual.

To Do

Situated in the east-end of Flores, Maumere is obviously the perfect staging place before you embark on your journey to Larantuka,Lake Kelimutu, Lembata,Ende, Labuan Bajo, and Komodo National Park.

While you are in town, you might want to explore the beautiful landscape of Maumere around Waiara Beach and the Kambing Island and Pangabatang Island.Waiterang Beach is definitely a must if you are in Maumere. Located only 31 Km from the heart of the town, the beach is renowned among divers, and also has the certified PADI diving course.

Koka Beach, 45Km west of Maumere has the legendary white sand which is as soft as powder. Not too far from the beach, you can find the traditional village of Mau Lo’o with all its unique traditional houses.

Donot forget to visit the uniqe Bikon Blewut Museum located in the campus of Sekolah Tinggi Filsafat Katholik Ledalero, a Catholic priest seminary, some 6 km. south of Maumere. Here you can find a large assortment of Flores history in artefacts collected by the priests.  Here are rare ikat cloths, stone age tools, musical iinstruments, ceramics from China, traditional weapons, and fossil bones from the Mastodon, an extinct huge elephant like a mammoth which inhabited from between 400,000 – 10,000 BC.

The Museum opens Mondays to Saturdays in the mornings from 07.00 to 13.00 hrs. 

Get There

Flights to Maumere are available from Bali and Kupang. Transnusa Airlines serves flights between Bali and Maumere three times a week with seating capacity of 82.  Batavia Air serves connecting flights from Surabaya-Bali-Kupang-Maumere four days a week on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, and Sunday.  Other Airlines that also serve flights to Maumere are Merpati Nusantara and Garuda Indonesia.

To Stay

The town has several cozy inns and hotels. Some of these are located in some of the best spots such as the coastline of Maumere. Here are some of the hotels you can try:

1.            Sylvia Hotel in Jalan Gajah Mada

2.            Permah Sari Hotel in Jl. Sudirman No.1 Maumere

3.            Adi Darma Hotel in Jl. R.E. Martadhinata, Kalabahi

To Eat

With its wide open seas, Maumere is obviously the Sea Food Paradise where an abundance of fish and other sea dwellers are available fresh every day. For a special treat, try the kasuami, the typical coastal dish of Eastern Indonesia popular in Ambon and Maluku Islands. Here, you can also find this dish in several restaurants. 

Adventure , East Nusa Tenggara