Ulun Danu Beratan: Iconic Temple on Lake Beratan in The Bedugul Highlands

Overview

Set within the highlands of the mountainous Bedugul Regency in Bali, atop a plateau that sits on Lake Beratan, stands the majestic Ulun Danu Temple. In the mild, mountain weather, approximately 1,500 meters above sea level, the air is crisp and cool. The stunningly clear lake is calm and almost perfectly still, save for the soft breeze that occasionally sweeps across, creating tiny ripples upon its surface. A thin mist rises from the lake and hangs in the air, surrounding the temple, giving it a somewhat surreal appearance.

Pura Ulun Danu was built in adoration of the Goddess Danu. Danu, in the Balinese tongue, means lake, while the goddess Danu is queen of water, lakes and rivers. The temple complex consists of four sacred buildings. Linga Pura stands three levels high, and is a place of worship to the god Shiva. Pura Puncak Mangu stands 11 levels high, and was built in dedication to the god Vishnu. PuraTeratai Bang is the main temple, and Pura Dalem Purwa is built in worship to Sang Hyang Widhi. This last temple is also a site for those who pray for fertility, prosperity and well-being.

The style of the building follows the Trimurti belief; three holy colors to represent the three gods: Shiva, Brahma and Vishnu. The first color is red, to the lord Brahma, The Creator. Second, is black. The symbol of the lord Vishnu, the balance and preserver of the universe.Finally, white for the god Shiva, The Destroyer.

The area surrounding the temple is believed to have been a site of worship and center for religious rituals since the megalithic period. To the left of the temple lies a sarcophagus as well as a stone slate that are dated to around 500 BC. The existence of the temple itself is has been recorded as early as 1556. In 1633, it was rebuilt by the King of Mengwi, I Gusti Agung Putu,  with a mixture of Hindu and Buddhist architectural styles. Despite its age, the temple remains clean and in good condition, well kept by the local community. Ulun Danu Temple is one of the icons of the island of Bali, and is pictured on the 50,000 rupiah bill.

Lake Beratan is the second largest lake in Bali, and is the source of irrigation for rice fields and plantations across the entire Bedugul Village. The mountain on which it sits is often referred to as “the holy mountain” as the weather is cool and the soil rich and fertile. In early times, Lake Beratan was the largest lake in Bali, until a devastating earthquake occurred, dividing the lake into three sections: Beratan, Buyan and Tamblingan. The name Beratan comes from the word Brata, which means to conduct one’s self to fill the 9 primary needs in life. The word is used in the term “Tapa Brata,” which is to meditate and be united with nature.

Get There

Bedugul is located in the Tabananregency, about 50 kilometers north of Denpasar, capital city of Bali, or 70 kilometers from the tourist area of Kuta. Bedugul can be reached by private or rental car. The uphill journey travels across steep and winding roads, but the view is simply amazing.

Lake Beratan and Ulun Danu are located in the village of Candikuning, Tabanan Regency, Bali, not too far from the Eka Karya Botanical Gardens.

To Do

Enjoy the cool, mountain air and revel in the beauty of the natural surroundings; A calm, cool lake, surrounded by terraced rice fields, rolling hills and dense forests. Rent a boat or canoe to explore the area over water, or simply relax and enjoy the ride across the lake.

Pay a visit to Eka Karya Park, Bali’s only botanic garden, or stroll through theCandi Kuning Traditional Market. Bedugul is a region where fruit trees and vegetables of various varieties flourish. These are later sold in markets both in Bedugul and other areas around across the island. There are also small stalls where you can purchase beautiful and unique souvenirs, as a memory of your trip.

Though this area is a sacred place for Hindus, there is also a mosque in the region to symbolize the level of tolerance and harmony displayed by the local community.

To Stay

Strawberry  Hill Hotel – cozy, traditional cabins, just a walk away from Lake Beratan.

Address:  Jl. Raya Denpasar-Singaraja Km. 48,Bedugul 82191

Phone: +62 368 21265

Email: info@strawberryhillbali.com

Website:www.strawberryhillbali.com

Bali Handara Kosaido – located in the central highlands of Bali, and ranked among the top 50 golf courses in the world.

Address: Bedugul, Bali
Phone: +62 362 3422646
Email:reservation@balihandarakosaido.com
Website:www.balihandaracountryclub.com

Enjung Beji  Resort Hotel – beautiful cottages around the lake, north of the Ulun Danu Temple.

Address: Jl. Raya Bedugul, Candikuning, Tabanan, Bali
Phone: +62  361  8528521

Email: info@enjungbejiresort.com

Website:http://www.enjungbejiresort.com/

Tips

Rainfall can be sudden and frequent in this area, so an umbrella may come in handy. If you don’t have one, these can also be rented around the lake. Bring a jacket or sweater as the weather can get quite cold.

Adventure , Bali , Traditional Villages

The Traditional Village of Wae Rebo on The Island of Flores

Overview

The traditional village of Wae Rebo in the district of Manggarai on the island of Flores, East Nusa Tenggara, has recently received the Top Award of Excellence from UNESCO in the 2012 UNESCO Asia Pacific Heritage Awards, announced in Bangkok on 27 August 2012.

This small and isolated village was recognized for its rebuilding of the traditional Mbaru Niang traditional house based on the spirit of community cooperation towards a sustainable tradition, while at the same time improving its village welfare.

Wae Rebo is a small, very out of the way village.  Located some 1,100 meters above sea level, where the air is cool and the village completely surrounded by panoramic mountains and the dense Todo forest. This tropical forest is rich in vegetation, where you will find orchids, different types of ferns and hear the chirping of many songbirds.

Founder of the village and, therefore, their main ancestor who built the village some 100 years ago, was a man called Empu Maro. Today, the inhabitants are his 18th generation descendents.  

Wae Rebo’s main characteristics are their unique houses, which they call Mbaru Niang that are tall and conical in shape and are completely covered in lontar thatch from its rooftop down to the ground.  It appears that at one time such kind of houses were quite common to the region.  But today, it is only this village that continues to maintain the typical Manggarai traditional house, without which these unique houses would have been completely fazed out.

The house has five levels, each level designated for a specific purpose. The first level , called lutur or tent, are the living quarters of the extended family. The second level, called lobo, or attic, is set aside to store food and goods, the third level called lentar is to store seeds for the next harvest, the fourth level calledlempa rae is reserved for food stocks in case of draught, and the fifth and top level, called hekang kode, which is held most sacred, is to place offerings for the ancestors.

One special ceremonial house is the community building where members of the entire clan gather for ceremonies and rituals. They are predominantly Catholic but still adhere to old beliefs. In this house are stored the sacred heirloom of drums and gongs.

With a small population of around 1,200 inhabitants only, the village comprises 7 houses, with half of these falling into disrepair. Thestaple diet of villagers is cassava and maize, but around the village they plant coffee, vanilla, and cinnamon which they sell in the market, located some 15 km. away from the village. Lately, however, Wae Rebo has grown in popularity as a touirst destination for international eco-tourism enthusiasts, and this has added to the economic welfare of the village.  The people of Wae Rebo warmly welome visitors who wish to see their village and experience their simple traditional life.   

If you wish to stay overnight, the villagers welcome visitors to their homes.

Get There

A trip to the village of Wae Rebo takes some 5 to 7 hours by car from Labuan Bajo on the west coast of Flores, hopping off point to the famous Komodo National Park. Alternatively, you may want to start your journey from the town of Ruteng, capital of the district of Manggarai, towards the village of Dintor, which takes around 4 hours.  After this the road goes uphill past ricefields until you reach Denge Sebu village. From here the only way is some 3 hours trekking through the jungle until you finally reach Wae Rebo.   

There are regular daily flights to Labuan Bajo’s Komodo Airport on Trans Nusa airlines and Merpati.

See on The Map

View Larger Map

East Nusa Tenggara , Traditional Villages

Sumba: Powerful Surf, Living Megalithic Culture and Fine Ikat Cloths

Overview

Facing the wide Indian Ocean, the island of Sumba in the province of East Nusatenggara is a surfer’s paradise. The large rolling Sumba barrels usually appear between May through October when waves can be either very high and strong or very flat as breaks are directly exposed to wide open ocean swells. This kind of powerful surf, however, though very challenging, should only be ventured by professionals. However, throughout the year, swells rise from 3 to 6 feet.

Although as yet little known on the tourist map, surprisingly the island of Sumba has a number luxurious, well frequented resorts. The Nihiwatu Resort, for example, describes itself as “the ultimate in privacy, exclusivity, views and romance”, and has been awarded Indonesia’s 2nd best hotel by Tripadvisor. Additionally there is the Sumba Nautil Resort both in the south west of Sumba, another favourite with surfers.  

Located between the islands of Komodo and Sumbawa, Sumba has two distinct climates. Its western part receives more rain, is more fertile and therefore has more inhabitants, whilst its eastern part is mountainous with grassy plateaus and valleys. Here is Sumba’s highest peak, the Wangga Meti rising 1,225 meters above sea level. . Capital of west Sumba is Waikabubak with its airport at Tambolaka, while the island’s largest town of Waingapu  in East Sumba.  In between are mostly villages where communities still adhere to the ancient belief of Marapu or ancestor worship of the megalithic era. Here you will find large, well carved megalithic tombs. Traditional clan houses are round with peaked thick thatched roofs resembling wide sunhats.   West Sumba plants rice, while East Sumba is famous for its water buffaloes and ikat weaving. Sumba raises Indonesia’s best horses.   

West Sumba 

The western part of Sumba has plenty to offer tourists who dare to venture into off-the-beaten- track destinations.  Here can be seen traditional villages, stone megalithic tombs even around West Sumba’s capital of Waikabubak, and watch rituals following the ancient belief of the islanders.The center of rituals Is the village of Tarung, a small remote hamlet west of Waikabubak, which the Sumbanese believe is their spiritual center.  It is the high priest of Tarung who officiates at the yearly Wula Padu ceremony honoring the deified ancestors at the start of the Marapu newyear at the arrival of the rainy season. The Festival is held around October or November. 

Once a year the exciting Pasola jousting festivals, the culmination of a series of fertility rituals are held on separate days at different locations on the island. Hundreds of warriors on horses charge into each other riding bareback, hurling spears. This festival, usually held between February and March, and is believed to bring fertility to the land.     

The world has come to know West Sumba closer since the opening of the Nihiwatu Resort in the southwest of the island, some 1.5 hours from Waikabubak. This resort is known for its exceptional surf and beautifully inspiring surroundings.  Surfing is best at the Kerewe, Marosi and Dasang beaches facing south where there are premier lefts and large double overhead surf.

East Sumba

Waingapu on the northern eastern coast of Sumba is the largest town and its seaport.

Around two kilometers from Waingapu is the traditional village of Prailiu, and some 10 km. away is the village of Kwangu, while 6 km from the city is the village of Labanapu, all three are famous for their exquisite ikat weaving. Women of Sumba produce some exemplary hand woven cloth with motifs of stylized horses, animals and people, in dark blue, red and black, white and yellow natural dyes.  Here visitors can watch the entire intricate and tedious process of ikat weaving. Look for the unique cloths with sewn in seashells.

Best surf in the east is on Manggudu island, which has both left and long right waves.

Get There

West Sumba airport is at Tambolaka, close to Waikabubak. Trans Nusa operates weekly flights to Sumba alternating between Tambolaka in the West amd Waingapu in the East, so make sure where you will land. The Nihiwatu Resort charters weekly flights to Tambolaka.

To Stay

There are several hotels and inns you can find throughout the island of Sumba, for information on hotels with website, you can refer to our find a hotel.

West Sumba:

1. Hotel Manandang      

Jl. Pemuda No.14 Waikabubak,

Phone: +62 387 22197     

2. Hotel Artha   

Jl. Veteran Waikabubak

Phone: +62 387 21112     

3. Hotel Pelita   

Jl. A. Yani No.2 Waikabubak

 Phone: +62 387 21104  

4. Hotel Aloha   

Jl. Sudirman No.26          

+62 387 21245     

East Sumba

1. Hotel Merlin

Jl. Panjaitan No.25 Waingapu     

Phone: +62 387 61300     

2. Hotel Sundlewood     

Jl.Panjaitan No.23 Waingapu      

Phone: +62 387 61887     

3. Hotel Elvin     

Jl. A. Yani No 73 Waingapu          

Phone: +62 387 62097     

4. Hotel Kaliuda                

Jl. Lalamentik No.3 Waingapu    

Phone: +62 387 61264     

5. Hotel Surabaya            

Jl. El Tari No.2 Waingapu              

+62 387 61125     

6. Hotel Lima Saudara    

Jl. Wanggameti No.2 Waingapu                

+62 387 61083

See on The Map

View Larger Map

Adventure , East Nusa Tenggara , Traditional Villages

Ruteng: Capital of Manggarai, hub to fascinating Flores Attractions

Overview

Ruteng, capital of the district of Manggarai, in the western part of the island of Flores, is a pleasant, busy town backed by a range of mountains. Located some 1,200 meters above sea level the air is cool. Surrounding the town are green rice fields that provide the staple for the population on this predominantly dry island. Coffee grown around here is also most invigorating.

Ruteng is some 4 hours drive from Labuan Bajo, the town where tourists take boats to visit the habitat of the famous Komodo Dragons on the islands of Komodo and Rinca or go diving in this National Park.  

It is from Ruteng that the Catholic mission spread to convert many of the islanders, building many missionary schools, so that Flores today is indeed predominantly Catholic.  

As capital city of Manggarai, Ruteng still maintains an equilibrium between the ancient and the modern. Most people visit Ruteng either at the start of their journey across Flores, or at the end.  Here most facilities are available, accommodation though modest are clean and good, and shops are well stocked. Internet also works here.

 Ruteng originated from a small village, and the story goes that it emerged from the heart of Compang Ruteng, or Ruteng Pu’u. This is a village that still exists until today and travelers go there to see the remaining original house of theManggaraian and a compang, a stone altar that is the center of the village. Acompang is a sacred place, where the ancestors are believed to live, while all the houses encircle it concentrically. Observe the locals who live as an agricultural community. Agricultural products found here are coffee, copra, candlenut, cloves, and cacao.

From Ruteng visit the mystifying spiderweb ricefields at Cancar, wander further to the Liang Bua cave, where archaeologists discovered skeletons of world’s singular hobbits. Watch the fantastic dance at Melo or Tado, or visit Wae Rebo, a hamlet in the hills of the district that still adheres to the megalithic culture.  

Similar to Bajawa and Moni, the weather in Ruteng is unexpectedly cooler than the rest of the island, making it a nice exotic town for morning or evening strolls.

To know more in depth about the culture and suorrundings of Ruteng, tour guides are the best asset to explain and allow you to experience some of Flores’ best. 

The puzzling Todo village is also worth an adventurous excursion, relating to the time when Minangkabau sailors from West Sumatra landed here hundreds of years ago far on the island of Flores. 

The ultimate activity to do on Flores is of course visit the living Komodo dragons, the Varanus komodoensis, in their habitat. Overall, the regency is a natural and cultural reserve that continues to illustriously enhance this rocky island.

As a hub of tourist attractions on Flores, Ruteng is easily accessible by land transportation. Manggarai was once a larger regency.

In 2003 and 2007, it was divided into three regencies; West Manggarai, Manggarai, and East Manggarai. Its strategic position and geographical situation at the slope of Mount Anak Ranaka, makes the town of Ruteng an energizing transit town and a fascinating destination at the same time.

To Do

‘Don’t judge a book by its cover’ applies to Ruteng. There are many resourceful persons who can tell you about extraordinary attractions. Consider paying a visit to these attractions:

As a start, the Catholic church right in the middle of the town is an interesting spot to discover the historical background of the town when Catholicism grew and came to be embraced by most of the population on the island. The building is a fantastic old structure yet invigorating as the energy from its spiritual ambiance permeates across the sizeable hall.

As background of Ruteng Mount Anak Ranaka , an active volcano is a safe home for endemic birds and insects. Go see the tour operator in town to see if they can provide a guide, or a professional botanist.

A few miles from the town, lies Liang Bua, another archeological site where hobbits are believed to have once roamed the land. Scientists call the newly found dwarf species the Homo floresiensis. The cave is very large and the local guide will surprise you as he takes you to a much larger hall inside the cave that connects modern age to the beginning of human civilization. In the mid 1950‘s the cave was used as a school and that alone is striking.

From Ruteng, Liang Bua is easily accessible by public transport, passing villages like Ru’ah Village where the community lives in a peaceful environment. The location of the cave is around 14 kilometers from Ruteng.

Architectural wonders are also part of the catalogue that Manggarai has to offer. In Wae Rebo, a village that hides from all the traffic and commercial activities around Ruteng, the community still lives and preserves the ancient way of living, staying in cone-shaped houses. It is said that in the 70s, living in a traditional house calledmbaru niang, disappeared. But, surprisingly, there is still this one village in the entire Manggarai district that still has a complete set of village structures, including traditional houses, a drum house as symbol of the tribe, and the compang, the stone altar where the souls of the ancients are believed to reside. (see pictures in “moments captured” on Flores)

Some 17 kilometers from Ruteng, and on the return journey from Labuan Bajo, a village named Cara in Cancar presents the most tremendous sight that will take your breath away. From a hilltop, green rice fields spread right before your eyes. Unusually, the pattern of the walkways resemble the form of a spider web that you will instantly ask ‘how does it work’ as the pattern shows so vividly.

It begins with a story on how the Wae Rebo community recount about their tradition and their house. There is a philosophical correlation between the spiderweb-like pattern and the form of the house, especially the drum house of Wae Rebo or at Ruteng Pu’u.

Leaving the heart of Ruteng and heading to Labuan Bajo, Melo Village is on the way. The village is worth a stopover since it has a unique way to predict next year’s successful harvest. The locals would dance the Caci, and if one of the players spills blood, the villagers can expect a successful harvest the following year. Villagers here call this tradtion and dance club the Compang To’e.

In the south central of Manggarai, Todo Village is there to present to you the past of the royal clan of Manggaraians who claimed that their ancestors came from Minangkabau, West Sumatra. The name of the first person to establish the clan was Mashur. Mashur took a wife from every village he passed and claimed that his kinship was extensively spread in Manggarai.

The trip to Todo Village takes 2 hours. The distance is only 36 kilometers from Ruteng. The road is exceptionally winding and bumpy as it passes hills and mountainous areas. Head north to Golo Lusang, and after passing Golo Cala, turn right to Pongkor as you will pass Papang and Ulun-Gali Village. After crossing the Wae Mese river, you will pass Popo Village and finally Todo is right ahead. Minibuses from Ruteng to Todo are called oto kayu or bemo. Motorbike rental is also available in Ruteng.

Finally, like other travelers, you will want to hurry to Labuan Bajo to take a exhilarating start crossing the strait to Komodo and Rinca Island. Here the Komodo dragons will be a few meters away from you and there is nothing comparable to be among the living dragon in their own habitat. 

A short visit to Batu Cermin Cave is an enjoyable and playful walk with a little thrilling experience to be in the dark and see the fossils of sea creatures on the cave walls. Listen to the guide who will tell you about the strange monkeys living nearby area who can fish with their tails. See Labuan Bajo for further details.

Get There

Ruteng is right at the cross road between Labuan Bajo and Ende,  Bajawa, or Maumere. Many public transportation pass the town. Wherever one travels the vehicle must stop in Ruteng for a rest. Consider the assistance of tour operators with excellent local knowledge and good communication skill. For details, contacts and bookings see Find Travel Agents

To Stay

In Ruteng, a few comfortable hotels are :

1.      Hotel Sindha on Jalan Yos Sudarso No. 26 (Phone: +62 385 21197).

2.      Hotel Maryo’s on Jalan Poco Komba, Kampung Leda, Ruteng (Phone: +62 813 530 69572 with Felix as an Assistant Manager).    Email: f_de_rozari@hotmail.com.

3.      Hotel Bunga is a new hotel built in 2010. For budget travelers, the hotel is a comfortable place to stay with a starting rate from IDR 80,000 a night. It is located on Jalan Merak Nekang (Phone +62 812 3771 3074).

4.      Hotel Dahlia is a nice hotel with hot shower. Breakfast is included. It is located on Jalan Bhayangkara No. 18 (Phone +62 385 21377).

5.      Hotel Rima is the most prominent hotel in Ruteng. With a bamboo style cottage, the hotel’s rate starts from IDR 75,000 to IDR 225,999 a night. It is on Jalan Ahmad Yani (Phone: +62 385 22196).

6.      Susteran Maria Berduka Cita is a dormitory like accommodation at the Catholic convent, but guests are welcome to stay here. The hotel has a rule that limits any activities after 9 pm. It is exceptionally clean and friendly. Rates starts from IDR 140,000 and sits on Jalan Ahmad Yani (Phone:+62 385 22834)

To Eat

The traditional market is always an attraction, and traditional food must be part of the meeting place. But if you wish to eat in a more comfortable atmosphere, please refer to the followings:

-          Note that Rumah Makan is translated as Restaurant, and Jalan or Jl. is Street. Here the term ‘No’is a short for number.

1.      Rumah Makan Agape on Jl. Bhayangkari No. 8 (Phone: +62 385 22100).

2.      Rumah Makan Cha Cha on Jl. Diponegoro No. 12 (Phone: +62 385 21489 or +62 812 3949 3747).

3.      Rumah Makan Dua Tiga on Jalan Motang Rua No. 15

4.      Lestari on  Jalan Komodo No. 2 (Phone:  +62 385 211393 or +62 813 39187 000)

5.      Mas Nardi on Jalan Adi Sucipto No. 11

6.      Padedoang is a Padang restaurant on Jl. Adi Sucipto No. 3

See on The Map

View Larger Map

Adventure , East Nusa Tenggara , Traditional Villages

The Traditional Whale Hunt of LAMALERA on FLORES

Overview

Around the world, the village of Lamalera on the island of Lembata  on Flores is known as the home of traditional whale hunting. Portuguese documents dating back to 1643 already mention that these heroic hunts were sighted then.

In Lamalera, villagers hunt large sea animals, like whales, manta rays and sometimes dolphins to provide food and a living for the entire village, which they undertake on simple sailboats and following ancient beliefs, taboos and tradition.  

It is for these reasons, therefore, that the Lamalera whale hunts are until this day exempt from the international ban on whaling, considering the traditional way this is still done and the fact that hunting these giant ocean creatures help villagers support their subsistence economy.  

Annually, whales migrate between the Indian Ocean and the Pacific during May through October, when these giant sea animals pass the Savu sea right at the doorstep of the island of Lembata. For Lembata, therefore, whale hunting starts on 1 May reaching its peak in July.

When a whale hunt is decided, a number of boats parked on the beach are released from their simple shelters, cheered on by the entire village , and a troupe of boats will set sail together to catch their harvest.

Before that, however, everyone gathers to attend a dedicated mass led by the local Catholic priest to pray for a succesful and safe expedition. For, the majority of the inhabitants here are Catholic.

The actual whaling is still done on traditonally flimsy wooden boats, called peledang. These are manned by between 7 – 14 helmsmen, oarsmen and harpooner, where each is assigned his special duties. The most agile of the team stands on the bow ready with a barbed harpoon.

When a whale or manta is sighted, he throws his harpoon into the animal jumping down on the harpoon itself so as to give it his additional weight.  When the target is a huge sperm whale and it is a hit, other team members throw more harpoons on the prey. And when it is finally disabled, together all team members heave up the heavy body onto the boat.  Other villages who also hunt for whales are from the Lamakera village on the island of Solor, but the Lamalera village is the most well known.

During one season, islanders may catch between 15 to 20 whales.

The Whale Hunting Ritual

In 1996,  Oxford University researcher, R.H. Barnes  wrote the “Sea Hunters of Indonesia: Fishers and Weavers of Lamalera”, describing this communal hunt for sperm whales (Physeter macrocepalus)  by the villagers in Lamalera, on Lembata Island.  

The village of Lamalera is surrounded by rocky hills and barren land, facing the wild sea of Savu.

When whaling season arrives, the boats are released. Crowds cheer as more boats, locally called peledang, glide out from the najeng, the boat houses. Tale leo, the rope made out of local vegetation, is hoisted to raise the sail. Another tale leo is fastened to the spiky harpoon. The whale hunt can take hours, and in some instances, it can take lives. The villagers catch only sperm whales as the tradition holds. Blue whales (Balaenoptera musculus) occasionally pass by the surrounding waters. However, these villagers would lead the approaching blue whales to the open sea and give them a warm good bye. Blue whales are considered taboo to hunt as they are believed to be the keepers of the Lamalera. They consider the blue whale as their mother, and hunting them is thus a sin.

When a whale approaches, the lamafa, the harpoonist jumps off the boat and stabs the cetaceans with a tempuling, a handmade harpoon. The heart-stopping action of a lamafa is one of the anticipated moments in the world of visual documentation. The curious visitors would wait for days to come along with the groups of matros, boatmen led by a lamafa. They would stay with the fishermen and the families to understand the fishermen’s unique lives. Baleo! Baleo! The villagers shout out as the awaited whale surfaces in the distance.

There are more taboos for the Lamaleras when it comes to whale hunting. It is also forbidden to hunt pregnant whales, young whales, and mating whales. This capacity to recognize these specific taboos can only be learnt through extensive periods of experience. Unfortunately, some elders worry that the tradition is vanishing as youngsters tend to separate tradition from convenient modernity, so that future generations will no longer adhere to such precious traditional values.

In response to the impending threat of disappearance, elders of Lamalera have transformed the seasonal practice into a festival called the Baleo Festival, which was started in 2009 and held annually until now. During the festival, traditional costumes are donned, and those who were born and raised in Lamalera congregate to make the festival not just a success, but also a legacy for the descendants of Lamalera.  The message of the ancestors must be passed down, which is to keep the tradition and local wisdom alive. 

Prior to the kotoklema hunt, a lefa, a ritual led by the village elder or a church priest, is held to invite the anticipated whales. One boat can accommodate 7 to 12matros, led by a lamafa or also called balafaing. When a lamafa springs into the water and thrusts the harpoon to the heart of the sea giant, the matros must be ready to handle the potential danger caused by the injured whale, which will often swim under and drag the boat with it. Three to four stabs are needed to paralyze the targeted whale, so the boat can tow the catch back to the village, and share it with the rest of the people ashore.

East Nusatenggara is truly an awe-inspiring destination for those who define adventure from different points of view. You can find bau nyale, the sea worm catching festival, pasola, the horse riding and javelin hurling festival, and the fascinating caci, whip battle dance here. Stop by the city of Kupang or Maumere, and explore the rest of the island at Ngada and other villages to learn some of the magnificent early traditions.

Get There

Lembata Island is 190 kilometers north of Kupang, the capital city of East Nusatenggara. Loweleba is the largest city in Lembata Island, and perched at the southern coast of the island. To get to Lowelaba, fly from Bali or Lombok to Maumereat the Frans Seda airport.  

From Maumere, go to Larantukaby bus. From Larantuka, the only way to go to Lamalera is by ferry crossing to Lewoleba which ply each day, or straight to Lamalera from Larantuka with a once-a-week ferry. 

To Stay

Hotel Puri in Lewoleba, the largest city and the capital of Lembata Island, is available for those who wish to visit Lamalera. The hotel is simple but decent enough as a getaway. Lewoleba jetty is nearby and you can take an Ojek for less than IDR 10,000 to the hotel. When you mention ‘bis’, literally means bus, the people will refer the term to wooden boat as a public transport.

To Eat

Try to sample jagung titi, locally made corn chips. It is very special in Lembata, and made in Weienga Village. Observe how it is made and you will find traditional tools from ancient times. Corn is cropped from the local corn fields. Jagung titi is best served when hot with fish sauce made locally, called lawar. Get three cups of jagung titi for only IDR 10,000 and you already taste the ancient Lembata.

Tips

If you are not into gory scenes, this hunt can be very disturbing. You may want to stay ashore. When you decide to go along in a boat led by a lamafa, you should be ready with all the risks.  It is highly recommended, therefore, that you go along on a different boat, as the raging whale can be very deadly. Beware of the frenzy as you may lose your equipment, especially your cameras.

See on The Map

View Larger Map

East Nusa Tenggara , Traditional Villages

Compang Ruteng Traditional Village

Overview

A compang is a stone altar usually found in the yards of traditional homes of the Manggarai community.  The Compang is the center of traditional ceremonies, among which is  the penti, a ceremony to thank God for a bountiful harvest.  Water buffalos and cows are tied to this Compang to be subsequently sacrificed.

The Compang Ruteng is located in the center of the Ruteng Pu'u village in Golo Dukal sub-district, Manggarai, Flores, East Nusa Tenggara (NTT).  The stone Compang and the yards surrounding it are on higher ground than the local homes. A Beringin tree (Ficus Benjamina), locally known as a Ruteng, once grew in the center of the Compang.  The tree is no longer there and is now replaced by a Dadap tree.  To its east, the Compang has two local traditional tall houses with sharp roofs. 

To Do

You can go inside the traditional house, called Rumah Gendang, to see its structure, wooden interior, and equipment such as a gong, small drums and shields used for traditional dances.  When you first enter the house you will be received as an official guest and there will be a series of ritual ceremonies that you must follow.  Local inhabitants can only speak in the Manggarai and Indonesian languages.  It is necessary for you to have an interpreter if you can't speak Indonesian and wish to enter the Rumah Gendang.

Get Around

From Ruteng town center, you can take a bemo or a motor taxi to go to Compang Ruteng.  After that, you can walk.  The total Compang land area is about half a soccer field

Get There

Compang Ruteng is located three kilometers from the town of Ruteng  in the Manggarai district in the western part of Flores.  You can can travel overland from Labuan Bajo to Ruteng, and further on to  Ende and Maumere.  There are daily flights from Kupang (on Timor island) to Maumere and Ende. From Kupang, there are flights twice a week to Ruteng. While to Labuan Bajo, there are daily flights from Bali, and an inter-island motorboat from Sape, on Sumbawa’s east coast, in West Nusa Tenggara.

To Stay

Ruteng has wooden hotels like the Rima Hotel which has a restaurant, or other styles including the Losmen Agung, Hotel Sindha, and Hotel Dahlia.  These hotels are located in the city center, enabling you to see and explore other areas nearby.

To Eat

Hotels and inns in Ruteng generally have restaurants.  If you wish to find other restaurants, you can try Restoran Merlin on Bhayangkara Street (0385-22475) which serves various types of Chinese and Indonesian foods.  On the same street, you can also try the newly established Agape Cafe, which provides espresso, beer, and Western, Chinese and Indonesian cuisine.

To Buy

You cannot find any souvenir shops in Compang Ruteng.  If you want to buy local souvenirs, you can find many interesting objects in the shopping malls in Ruteng including many types of songket woven fabrics from Manggarai and other areas of Flores.  If you like to collect long daggers, you can find many at shop terraces near Motang Rua field

Tips

If you want to see the interior parts of traditional house, Rumah Gendang, in Compang Ruteng you can pay Rp. 10.000 or 1 USD to its tennants or guards.

See on The Map

View Larger Map

East Nusa Tenggara , Traditional Villages

Prailiu village

Overview

Prailiu is one of the many traditional and exotic villages in Sumba. It is located in a suburb area of Waingapu, the capital city of East Sumba District about two kilometers away from the city center.  Despite rapid development, traditional tall houses with sharp leaf roofs are still apparent here.  However, you can now see many zinc roof houses with different designs.  The local government, assisted by the World Bank, is currently reconstructing local traditional houses in this village.
   
Although most of the local inhabitants are Christian, they still follow local traditions based on their original religion of Marapu.  Tall houses and burial processes, for instance, are closely related with their traditional beliefs. Their traditional houses have three parts, representing local cosmology i.e., underground as the home of the dead, the middle part as the home for the living, and the roof as the home of the Gods.
   
In addition to traditional houses, Prailiu also has a number of original cemeteries.  You can also find the famous traditional woven fabric and its weaving process here.

Get Around

You can find rented cars at Waingapu airport.  If you are a hotel guest, you can ask for a pick up service.  Hotels generally provide rented cars.  In the city, there are motor taxis that can take you around.  You can just stand by the street, and they will come to offer their services.

To Do

You can do many things in Prailiu.  Local inhabitants are familiar with tourists and researchers.  You can see mothers weaving fabrics who can show you how to weave, spin, and make natural colored dies for yarn.  Buying fabrics and various types of woven products are certianly what they expect from tourists. You can walk around the village while observing traditional houses and cemeteries full of carved materials and corpse preserving process.

Get There

Merpati airlines has a regular flight to Waingapu airport.  It provides flights from Kupang via Maumere and from Denpasar four times a week (Merpati Waingapu: 0387-61323). Transnusa also provides this route from Kupang but its schedule is tentative.  Merpati flies with the same frequency to Tambolaka in West Sumba, but from there, you have to take a four-hour drive to Waingapu.  Although winding, the condition of the roads from Tambolaka to Waingapu are good.  Meadows and savannas in East Sumba provide amazing scenery along the way.
   
For sea transportation, motor boats from Ende and Aimere in Flores and from Kupang in Timor (ASDP-Waingapu: 0387-61533) are available.  Pelni ships arrive in Waingapu twice a week.

To Stay

Waingapu has many hotels and home stays. Some commonly visited by vacationers are the Hotel Merlin (0387-61300), Hotel Sandlewood (0387-61887), and Hotel Elvin (0387-62097).

To Eat

Hotels usually have their own restaurants such as Merlin, Sandlewood, and Evlin restaurants.  At night, there are many food stalls selling grilled fish in Pelabuhan Lama.

To Buy

Buying various types of woven products is certainly something you should not miss when visiting Prailiu.  Each village in Sumba actually has its own special product.  Some villages are famous for their woven fabrics, and some others are known for their scarf products.  In Prailiu, you can find them all because woven fabrics from various villages in hinterlands are also available here.

Tips

Betel is a compulsory dish for visitors. You don't have to eat it but you have to be polite when rejecting it so as to respect local customs.
   
Tourists are considered potential buyers by mothers selling fabrics.  It is best not to have a quick transaction, but you should have a small talk first.  Hospitality will bring many advantages.  You will probably be given information about which products are made of manufactured yarns and which are of home woven yarns.

East Nusa Tenggara , Traditional Villages